The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition for treating keratin substances, in particular human hair, this composition comprising at least one grafted silicone polymer comprising a polysiloxane portion and a portion consisting of a non-silicone organic chain, one of the two portions constituting the main chain of the polymer, the other being grafted onto the said main chain, and at least one thickening polymer or copolymer of (meth)acrylamide or of a (meth)acrylamide derivative, as well as to its applications.
Polymers of the grafted silicone polymer type comprising a polysiloxane portion and a portion consisting of a non-silicone organic chain, one of the two portions constituting the main chain of the polymer, the other being grafted onto the said main chain, are known for their hairstyling properties. They are particularly advantageous in haircare cosmetics since they give the hair hold. However, after they have been applied to the hair, their cosmetic properties are still unsatisfactory. It is observed that after applying these polymers, the hair has a coarse and crisp feel resulting from non-continuous distribution of the polymer along the hair fibres.
The Applicant has found, surprisingly, that the use of a crosslinked or non-crosslinked thickening polymer or copolymer of (meth)acrylamide or of a (meth)acrylamide derivative in haircare compositions containing a polymer of the grafted silicone polymer type comprising a polysiloxane portion and a portion consisting of a non-silicone organic chain, one of the two portions constituting the main chain of the polymer, the other being grafted onto the said main chain, makes it possible to improve, after it has been applied, the deposition of the grafted silicone polymer along the keratin fibres and to improve their cosmetic properties, in particular as regards their feel, while at the same time retaining the styling properties of the grafted silicone polymer.
The composition according to the invention is thus essentially characterized in that it contains, in a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium, at least one grafted silicone polymer comprising a polysiloxane portion and a portion consisting of a non-silicone organic chain, one of the two portions constituting the main chain of the polymer, the other being grafted onto the said main chain, and at least one crosslinked or non-crosslinked thickening polymer or copolymer of (meth)acrylamide or of a (meth)acrylamide derivative.
The grafted silicone polymers according to the invention are preferably chosen from polymers having a non-silicone organic skeleton grafted with monomers containing a polysiloxane, polymers having a polysiloxane skeleton grafted with non-silicone organic monomers and mixtures thereof.
In the following text, in accordance with what is generally accepted, the term silicone or polysiloxane is understood to denote any organosilicon polymer or oligomer having a linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms (siloxane bonding xe2x89xa1Sixe2x80x94Oxe2x80x94Sixe2x89xa1), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being linked directly via a carbon atom to the said silicon atoms. The most common hydrocarbon radicals are alkyl radicals, especially C1-C10 alkyl radicals, and in particular methyl, fluoroalkyl radicals, aryl radicals and in particular phenyl, and alkenyl radicals and in particular vinyl; other types of radicals which can be linked, either directly or via a hydrocarbon radical, to the siloxane chain are, especially, hydrogen, halogens and in particular chlorine, bromine or fluorine, thiols, alkoxy radicals, polyoxyalkylene (or polyether) radicals and in particular polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene, hydroxyl or hydroxyalkyl radicals, substituted or unsubstituted amine groups, amide groups, acyloxy radicals or acyloxyalkyl radicals, hydroxyalkylamino or aminoalkyl radicals, quaternary ammonium groups, amphoteric or betaine groups, anionic groups such as carboxylates, thioglycolates, sulphosuccinates, thiosulphates, phosphates and sulphates, needless to say this list not being limiting in any way (so-called xe2x80x9corganomodifiedxe2x80x9d silicones).
In the following text, in accordance with what is generally accepted, the expression xe2x80x9cpolysiloxane macromerxe2x80x9d is understood to refer to any monomer containing a polysiloxane-type polymer chain in its structure.
The polymers containing a non-silicone organic skeleton grafted with monomers containing a polysiloxane, in accordance with the present invention, consist of an organic main chain formed from organic monomers containing no silicone, on which is grafted, inside the said chain and optionally on at least one of its ends, at least one polysiloxane macromer.
The non-silicone organic monomers constituting the main chain of the grafted silicone polymer can be chosen from monomers containing ethylenic unsaturation which are polymerizable via a radical route, monomers which are polymerizable by polycondensation, such as those forming polyamides, polyesters or polyurethanes, and monomers which involve ring opening, such as those of the oxazoline or caprolactone type.
The polymers containing a non-silicone organic skeleton grafted with monomers containing a polysiloxane, in accordance with the present invention, can be obtained according to any means known to those skilled in the art, in particular by reaction between (i) a starting polysiloxane macromer which is correctly functionalized on the polysiloxane chain and (ii) one or more non-silicone organic compounds, themselves correctly functionalized with a function which is capable of reacting with the functional group(s) borne by the said silicone, forming a covalent bond; a classic example of such a reaction is the radical reaction between a vinyl group borne on one of the ends of the silicone with a double bond of a monomer containing ethylenic unsaturation in the main chain.
The polymers containing a non-silicone organic skeleton grafted with monomers containing a polysiloxane, in accordance with the invention, are more preferably chosen from those described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,693,935, 4,728,571 and 4,972,037 and patent applications EP-A-0,412,704, EP-A-0,412,707, EP-A-0,640,105 and WO 95/00578. These are copolymers obtained by radical polymerization starting with monomers containing ethylenic unsaturation and silicone macromers having a terminal vinyl group, or alternatively copolymers obtained by reaction of a polyolefin comprising functionalized groups and a polysiloxane macromer having a terminal function which is reacted with the said functionalized groups.
One particular family of silicone polymers which is suitable for carrying out the present invention consists of silicone grafted copolymers comprising:
a) from 0 to 98% by weight of at least one lipophilic monomer (A) of low lipophilic polarity containing ethylenic unsaturation, which is polymerizable via a radical route;
b) from 0 to 98% by weight of at least one polar hydrophilic monomer (B) containing ethylenic unsaturation, which is copolymerizable with the (A)-type monomer(s);
c) from 0.01 to 50% by weight of at least one polysiloxane macromer (C) of general formula:
X(Y)nSi (R)3xe2x88x92mZmxe2x80x83xe2x80x83(I)
where:
X denotes a vinyl group which is copolymerizable with the monomers (A) and (B);
Y denotes a divalent bonding group;
R denotes a hydrogen, a C1-C6 alkyl or alkoxy or a C6-C12 aryl;
Z denotes a monovalent polysiloxane unit having a number-average molecular weight of at least 500;
n is 0 or 1 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 3;
the percentages being calculated relative to the total weight of the monomers (A), (B) and (C).
These polymers are described, along with processes for their preparation, in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,693,935, 4,728,571 and 4,972,037 and in patent applications EP-A-0,412,704, EP-A-0,412,707 and EP-A-0,640,105. They have a number-average molecular weight preferably ranging from 10,000 to 2,000,000 and preferably a glass transition temperature Tg or a crystalline melting point Tm of at least xe2x88x9220xc2x0 C.
As examples of lipophilic monomers (A), mention may be made of acrylic or methacrylic acid esters of C1-C18 alcohols; styrene; polystyrene macromers; vinyl acetate; vinyl propionate; xcex1-methylstyrene; tert-butylstyrene; butadiene; cyclohexadiene; ethylene; propylene; vinyltoluene; acrylic or methacrylic acid esters of a 1,1-dihydroperfluoroalkanol or of homologues thereof; acrylic or methacrylic acid esters of xcfx89-hydridofluoroalkanols; acrylic or methacrylic acid esters of a fluoroalkylsulphoamido alcohol; acrylic or methacrylic acid esters of a fluoroalkyl alcohol; acrylic or methacrylic acid esters of a fluoroether alcohol; or mixtures thereof.
The preferred monomers (A) are chosen from the group consisting of n-butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, tert-butyl acrylate, tert-butyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate, 2-(N-methylperfluorooctanesulphonamido)ethyl acrylate and 2-(N-butylperfluorooctanesulphonamido)ethyl acrylate, and mixtures thereof.
As examples of polar monomers (B), mention may be made of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, N,N-dimethylacrylamide, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, (meth)acrylamide, N-t-butylacrylamide, maleic acid, maleic anhydride and semiesters thereof, hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, diallyldimethylammonium chloride, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers, maleimides, vinylpyridine, vinylimidazole, heterocyclic vinyl polar compounds, styrene sulphonate, allyl alcohol, vinyl alcohol and vinyl caprolactam, or mixtures thereof. The preferred monomers (B) are chosen from the group consisting of acrylic acid, N,N-dimethylacrylamide, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and vinylpyrrolidone, and mixtures thereof.
The preferred polysiloxane macromers (C) of formula (I) are chosen from those corresponding to the general formula (II) below: 
in which:
R1 is hydrogen or xe2x80x94COOH (preferably hydrogen);
R2 is hydrogen, methyl or xe2x80x94CH2COOH (preferably methyl);
R3 is C1-C6 alkyl, alkoxy, or alkylamino, C6-C12 aryl or hydroxyl (preferably methyl); R4 is C1-C6 alkyl, alkoxy or alkylamino, C6-C12 aryl or hydroxyl (preferably methyl);
q is an integer from 2 to 6 (preferably 3);
p is 0 or 1;
r is an integer from 5 to 700;
m is an integer from 1 to 3 (preferably 1).
The polysiloxane macromers of formula: 
with n being an integer ranging from 5 to 700, are more particularly used.
One particular embodiment of the invention consists in using a copolymer which can be obtained by radical polymerization starting with the monomer mixture consisting of:
a) 60% by weight of tert-butyl acrylate;
b) 20% by weight of acrylic acid;
c) 20% by weight of silicone macromer of formula: 
with n being an integer ranging from 5 to 700; the weight percentages being calculated relative to the total weight of the monomers.
Another particular embodiment of the invention consists in using a copolymer which can be obtained by radical polymerization starting with the monomer mixture consisting of:
a) 80% by weight of tert-butyl acrylate;
b) 20% by weight of silicone macromer of formula: 
with n being an integer ranging from 5 to 700; the weight percentages being calculated relative to the total weight of the monomers.
Another particular family of silicone polymers, which is suitable for carrying out the present invention, consists of silicone grafted copolymers which can be obtained by reactive extrusion of a polysiloxane macromer having a terminal reactive function, with a polyolefin-type polymer containing reactive groups which can react with the terminal function of the polysiloxane macromer in order to form a covalent bond allowing grafting of the silicone to the main chain of the polyolefin.
These polymers are described, along with a process for their preparation, in patent application WO 95/00578.
The reactive polyolefins are preferably chosen from polyethylenes or polymers of ethylene-derived monomers such as propylene, styrene, alkylstyrene, butylene, butadiene, (meth)acrylates, vinyl esters or equivalents, containing reactive functions which can react with the terminal function of the polysiloxane macromer. They are chosen more particularly from copolymers of ethylene or of ethylene derivatives and of monomers chosen from those containing a carboxylic function, such as (meth)acrylic acid; those containing an acid anhydride function such as maleic anhydride; those containing an acid chloride function such as (meth)acryloyl chloride; those containing an ester function such as (meth)acrylic acid esters; those containing an isocyanate function.
The silicone macromers are preferably chosen from polysiloxanes containing a functionalized group, at the end of the polysiloxane chain or close to the end of the said chain, chosen from the group consisting of alcohols, thiols, epoxy groups and primary and secondary amines, and more particularly from those corresponding to the general formula (III):
Txe2x80x94(CH2)sxe2x80x94Sixe2x80x94[xe2x80x94(OSiR5R6)txe2x80x94R7]y.xe2x80x83xe2x80x83(III)
in which T is chosen from the group consisting of NH2, NHRxe2x80x2, an epoxy, OH, or SH function; R5, R6, R7 and Rxe2x80x2, independently denote a C1-C6 alkyl, phenyl, benzyl, C6-C12 alkylphenyl or hydrogen; s is a number from 2 to 100; t is a number from 0 to 1000 and y is a number from 1 to 3. They have a number-average molecular weight preferably ranging from 5000 to 300,000, more preferably from 8000 to 200,000 and more particularly from 9000 to 40,000.
According to the present invention, the grafted silicone polymer(s) containing a polysiloxane skeleton grafted with non-silicone organic monomers comprise a silicone (or polysiloxane (xe2x89xa1Sixe2x80x94Oxe2x80x94)n) main chain on which is grafted, inside the said chain as well as, optionally, on at least one of its ends, at least one organic group containing no silicone.
The polymers containing a polysiloxane skeleton grafted with non-silicone organic monomers, according to the invention, can be existing commercial products or alternatively can be obtained according to any means known to those skilled in the art, in particular by reaction between (i) a starting silicone which is correctly functionalized on one or more of these silicon atoms, and (ii) a non-silicone organic compound which is itself correctly functionalized with a function which is capable of reacting with the functional group(s) borne by the said silicone, forming a covalent bond; a classic example of such a reaction is the hydrosilylation reaction between xe2x89xa1Sixe2x80x94H groups and vinyl groups CH2xe2x95x90CHxe2x80x94, or alternatively the reaction between thio functional groups xe2x80x94SH with these same vinyl groups.
Examples of polymers with a polysiloxane skeleton grafted containing non-silicone organic monomers which are suitable for carrying out the present invention, as well as their specific mode of preparation, are described in particular in patent application s EP-A-0,582,152, WO 93/23009 and WO 95/03776, the teachings of which are included in their entirety in the present description by way of non-limiting references.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the silicone polymer containing a polysiloxane skeleton grafted with non-silicone organic monomers, which is used comprises the result of the radical copolymerization between, on the one hand, at least one non-silicone anionic organic monomer having ethylenic unsaturation and/or a non-silicone hydrophobic organic monomer having ethylenic unsaturation, and, on the other hand, a silicone having in its chain at least one functional group capable of reacting with the said ethylenic unsaturations of the said non-silicone monomers, forming a covalent bond, in particular thio functional groups.
According to the present invention, the said anionic monomers containing ethylenic unsaturation are preferably chosen, alone or as a mixture, from linear or branched, unsaturated carboxylic acids, optionally partially or totally neutralized in the form of a salt, it being possible for this (these) carboxylic acid(s) to be, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid, fumaric acid and crotonic acid The suitable salts are, in particular, alkali metal salts, alkaline-earth metal salts and ammonium salts. It will likewise be noted that, in the final grafted silicone polymer, the organic group of anionic nature which comprises the result of the radical (homo)polymerization of at least one anionic monomer of unsaturated carboxylic acid type can, after reaction, be post-neutralized with a base (sodium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, etc) in order to bring it into the form of a salt.
According to the present invention, the hydrophobic monomers containing ethylenic unsaturation are preferably chosen, alone or as a mixture, from acrylic acid esters of alkanols and/or methacrylic acid esters of alkanols. The alkanols are preferably C1-C18 and more particularly C1-C12. The preferred monomers are chosen from the group consisting of isooctyl (meth)acrylate, isononyl (meth)acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl (meth)acrylate, lauryl (meth)acrylate, isopentyl (meth)acrylate, n-butyl (meth)acrylate, isobutyl (meth)acrylate, methyl (meth)acrylate, tert-butyl (meth)acrylate, tridecyl (meth)acrylate and stearyl (meth)acrylate, or mixtures thereof.
One family of silicone polymers containing a polysiloxane skeleton grafted with non-silicone organic monomers which is particularly suitable for carrying out the present invention consists of silicone polymers containing in their structure the unit of formula (IV) below: 
in which the radicals G1, which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen or a C1-C10 alkyl radical or alternatively a phenyl radical; the radicals G2, which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C10 alkylene group; G3 represents a polymer residue resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one anionic monomer containing ethylenic unsaturation; G4 represents a polymer residue resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one hydrophobic monomer containing ethylenic unsaturation; m and n are equal to 0 or 1; a is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; b is an integer which may be between 10 and 350, c is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; with the proviso that one of the parameters a and c is other than 0.
Preferably, the unit of formula (IV) above has at least one, and even more preferably all, of the following characteristics:
the radicals G1 denote an alkyl radical, preferably the methyl radical;
n is non-zero and the radicals G2 represent a divalent C1-C3 radical, preferably a propylene radical;
G3 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one monomer of the carboxylic acid type containing ethylenic unsaturation, preferably acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid;
G4 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one monomer of the C1-C10 alkyl (meth)acrylate type, preferably isobutyl or methyl (meth)acrylate.
Examples of grafted silicone polymers corresponding to formula (IV) are, in particular, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) on which are grafted, via a thiopropylene-type connecting chain, mixed polymer units of the poly(meth)acrylic acid type and of the polymethyl (meth)acrylate type.
Other examples of silicone polymers corresponding to formula (IV) are, in particular, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) on which are grafted, via a thiopropylene-type connecting chain, polymer units of the polyisobutyl (meth)acrylate type.
Preferably, the number-average molecular mass of the silicone polymers containing a polysiloxane skeleton grafted with non-silicone organic monomers, of the invention, ranges approximately from 10,000 to 1,000,000 and even more preferably approximately from 10,000 to 100,000.
The silicone grafted polymers of the invention are preferably used in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. More preferably, this amount ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight and even more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight.
As preferred thickening polymers or copolymers of (meth)acrylamide or of a (meth)acrylamide derivative which are suitable for the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of the following polymers:
(i) crosslinked copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid which are partially or totally neutralized (with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or an amine) and of acrylamide, such as the product described in Example 1 of document EP-A-503,853;
(ii) crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers of ammonium acrylate and of (meth)acrylamide, such as the product sold under the name Bozepol C Nouveau or the product PAS 5193 sold by the company Hoechst (these are described and prepared in documents FR 2,416,723, U.S. Pat. Nos. 2,798,053 and 2,923,692);
(iii) crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride and of (meth)acrylamide, such as the product Salcare SC92 sold by Allied Colloids or the product PAS 5194 sold by Hoechst (these are described in document EP-A-395,282);
(iv) mixtures thereof.
The polymers or copolymers of (meth)acrylamide or of a (meth)acrylamide derivative according to the invention are used in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. More preferably, this amount ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight and even more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight.
The cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium preferably consists of water or a mixture of water and cosmetically acceptable solvents such as monoalcohols, polyalcohols, glycol ethers or fatty acid esters, which can be used alone or as a mixture.
Mention may be made more particularly of lower alcohols such as ethanol and ispropanol, polyalcohols such as diethylene glycol, glycol ethers, glycol alkyl ethers or diethylene glycol alkyl ethers.
The grafted silicone polymers according to the invention can be dissolved in the said cosmetically acceptable medium or used in the form of an aqueous dispersion of particles.
The composition of the invention can also contain at least one additive chosen from thickeners, fatty acid esters, fatty acid esters of glycerol, silicones, surfactants, fragrances, preserving agents, sunscreens, proteins, vitamins, polymers, plant, animal, mineral or synthetic oils or any other additive conventionally used in the cosmetic field.
These additives are present in the composition according to the invention in proportions which can range from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The precise amount of each additive depends on its nature and is determined readily by those skilled in the art.
Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional compound(s) to be added to the composition according to the invention such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition in accordance with the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the addition envisaged.
The compositions according to the invention can be in the form of a gel, a milk, a cream, a relatively thickened lotion or a mousse.
These compositions are more particularly hairsetting lotions, blow-drying lotions, fixing compositions (lacquers) and styling compositions. The lotions can be packaged in various forms, in particular in vapourizers, pump-dispenser bottles or in aerosol containers in order to ensure application of the composition in vapourized form or in the form of a mousse. Such packaging forms are indicated, for example, when it is desired to obtain a spray, a lacquer or a mousse for fixing or treating the hair.
The compositions can also be shampoos, rinse-out or leave-in compositions, to be applied before or after shampooing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving or straightening the hair.
When the composition according to the invention is packaged in aerosol form in order to obtain a lacquer or an aerosol mousse, it comprises at least one propellant which can be chosen from volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, propane, isobutane, pentane, a chloro and/or fluoro hydrocarbon, and mixtures thereof. Carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, dimethyl ether, nitrogen or air, which is compressed, and mixtures thereof, can also be used as propellant.
Another subject of the invention is a non-therapeutic process for treating keratin substances such as the hair, which consists in applying a composition as defined above to the hair and then optionally in rinsing with water.
The invention will now be illustrated more fully with the aid of the examples which follow, which should not be considered as limiting it to the embodiments described.